(The writer is the director of the northern region at the Antiquities Authority)
Today's Al-Atika neighborhood is located east of Bat Galim, between Jaffa Street and Haifa Port. In the past, the neighborhood was part of the ancient Haifa settlement which spread over a larger area. The name of the neighborhood "El Atiqa" comes from the Arabic word that means the ancient. For many years researchers believed that the neighborhood is the nucleus of modern Haifa and in fact, this is where Haifa began in ancient times. In addition, the neighborhood is known as "Almakhta" the station. And it is named after the train station that was in the neighborhood during the Ottoman period as part of the Hijaz train.
The beginning of the settlement in ancient Haifa in the Roman period:
It is estimated that during the time of Vespasian (9 BC - 79 AD) a military base was built there, on the main road between Acre and Caesarea (a road from which other roads branched off such as the road in today's Kfar Ata area and reached Megiddo). The settlement existed during the period Byzantine to the Crusader period.
The place was abandoned by the Crusaders
During the Crusader period, the place was abandoned by the Crusaders and a small fishing village remained in the area of the old El Atika neighborhood. In the eighteenth century (year 1761), the ruler Daher al-Omer decided to destroy the neighborhood, and to develop only the new Haifa, which he built almost 3 km east of there. The reasons for this are not clear, but it is possible that it is a thought of not being able to control the built Haifa In two places on the reef, far from each other. With the destruction of the city, Dahr al-Omar also destroyed the port that was in the neighborhood.
At the end of the 19th century, Arab families began to return to live in the neighborhood:
These were local Christian families, or immigrant families from Lebanon and Syria such as the Buta'i family (Lebanese Christian family).
Parts of the neighborhood's buildings were destroyed by the Shekmona company after the establishment of the state, mainly in the 50s, in order to develop and expand the port and later due to the expansion of the railroad. The demolition work continued for years, and some of the houses were evacuated. Today only around 25 families live in the neighborhood.
The archaeological research:
From the archaeological point of view, the remains testify to the boundaries of Old Haifa, from the area a little south of the Rambam Hospital (now part of the Bat Galim neighborhood) to the northernmost parts of the neighborhood at the junction between Jaffa Street and Ben Gurion Boulevard.
During the excavations conducted at the Rambam Hospital, remains of a settlement from the Byzantine period (6th-7th century AD) and remains of a settlement from the early Islamic period (8th-XNUMXth century AD) were discovered.
Remains of burial caves
Inside the neighborhood, which is now defined as "El Atiqa" (between Jaffa Street and Ben Gurion Boulevard), mainly the remains of burial caves from the Roman and Byzantine periods were found. Most of the caves were looted.
The most prominent of the burial caves is a cave that is currently under the railroad at the entrance to the neighborhood: the cave is built from a central hall, which is accessed by several steps. From there you enter the rooms, the walls of which were cut into niches where the buried were placed.
Key points in the neighborhood today:
On a tour of the Al-Atika neighborhood today, you can mainly see the empty areas that left traces of the destruction of the buildings. Residents testify in conversation with them that the neighborhood was built very densely and there were hundreds of families, so much so that the neighborhood was characterized by alleys and not streets. One of the residents testified in the conversation that he was able to cross his neighborhood by walking on the rooftops of the neighborhood.
Today, on a tour of the neighborhood you can mainly see the following monuments:
- Archangel Gabriel Church:
A church was built during the 1930s when Bishop Gregorios Hajar asked one of the residents to donate the funds for the construction of the church (Jobran Fuad Saad). The donor was buried in a special room in the southern part of the church within the compound, according to his request. The church belongs to the Catholic community and there was an elementary school next to it until 1948. The school was closed in 1948 during the war because of the events of the war and was not opened at all after that. The church has undergone several renovations in recent years and is named after the angel Gabriel (who announced the birth of Jesus to Mary and according to the Old Testament announced the birth of John the Baptist). - Burial system:
The cave system was surveyed back in 1880 by the British expedition and documented in 1890 by the German engineer Schumacher. The cave is under the railway. It underwent conservation work for the expansion of the railway. According to its shape, it dates to the Byzantine period, fourth - sixth centuries AD. A similar cave was excavated by the Antiquities Authority in 1991 following the expansion of the railroad. The excavated campaign is built similarly to the previous one: a central space from which you enter three rooms, the walls of the rooms were carved with niches for placing the sarcophagi. Among the small finds in the cave: pottery, a rosary, iron nails and two coins: one from the time of Constantius II (324 - 361 AD) and Justinian (518 - 527 AD). According to the findings, the use of the cave can be dated from the fourth century AD to the seventh century, that is, between the Byzantine period and the early Islamic period. - The cemeteries in Alatica:
The neighborhood borders several cemeteries, buildings:- The Templar Cemetery, that mainly key people from the German Templar colony are buried there such as Gottlieb Schumacher, and his father Jacob Schumacher and some of the founders of the neighborhood in the German colony. But there are a few individual graves that do not belong to the Templars. For example, the grave of Mrs. "Alice Oliphant" who was the wife of Lawrence Oliphant (a British author and member of parliament as well as a jurist - he visited Israel during the Ottoman period and in 1882 he settled in Dalit El Carmel in a house he built during the winter months he lived in a house named after him in the German colony Beit Oliphant).
- British Military Cemetery: Bordering the neighborhood on the north side, it was established for the British martyrs who fell in Haifa in World War I. It was established and is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, and it is divided according to the martyrs' religions.
- Anglican Cemetery: British citizens are mostly buried here (compared to the military cemetery which is only for military personnel). Among those buried are key figures such as:
Dr. Ibrahim Zurov - a Christian Arab doctor who established free medical clinics for residents in the 20s-30s of the last century
George Sykes - Director of the Department of Railway Traffic in Israel during the Mandate period. - The old Jewish cemetery: It was used by the Jews as a cemetery between 1860-1935 and was renovated in 2010.
- The residences in the neighborhood:
On a tour of the neighborhood you can get an impression of the stone houses that were built at the beginning of the twentieth century when the neighborhood was rebuilt: houses built with stone walls and concrete roofs. Over the years, parts were added to expand the residences. The original families who built these houses do not live in the neighborhood and most of the houses are rented to sheltered tenants or on rent.
El Atika neighborhood is considered one of the oldest neighborhoods in Haifa with a long history. It is also considered a foundation and the place from which the new Haifa began, and therefore I started the series of articles on the neighborhoods of Haifa from this place. The story of the neighborhood lies precisely in what is not seen today and the destruction of the neighborhood several times throughout history. This destruction with which disappeared not the historical buildings but mainly, the stories of the neighborhood and the residents who lived in it and built it for many years.
I was born in the neighborhood in 1950, is another tour planned in the neighborhood soon?
Greetings. Thanks for the comment. No upcoming tour is planned, but you can coordinate with me with great pleasure
[email protected] or by phone 0524284356
Hello to Dr. Kamil Shalom
I would be very happy to join a tour of the neighborhood under your guidance. It would be great to meet other residents who lived in the neighborhood. I would appreciate an answer through my email, thank you.
I was born and lived in Customs 5 until 74, I studied peacefully
An interesting and curious article to take a walk in the neighborhood. Do you also guide small groups for seniors?
What about the ancient Jewish settlement that was there...?? Why is there no mention in the article, why is the grave of Abdimi Daman Haifa not mentioned? What about the Ramban...? There was a respectable settlement of Jews in the area in previous periods... Why is there no photograph of the grave of the Amorai HaMada Abdimi?....
The article did not mention the graves of people or personalities, but rather mentioned the cemeteries bordering the neighborhood. The main part of the article focused on the neighborhood itself. Regarding a Jewish settlement - it was noted that Jews as well as Christians and pagans lived in the neighborhood throughout the ages. But I am not sure that the settlement was Jewish.
Hello to Dr. Kamil Sari.
Rabbi Abdimi Daman Haifa (translated into Hebrew: Rabbi Abdimi of the city of Haifa) was said to be in the second and third generations of the Amorites of the Land of Israel. In some places he is called Rabbi Dimi Daman Haifa or Rabbi Abdia Dahaifa.
Rabbi Abdimi is mentioned in the Talmud, so it is likely that he was part of a developed Jewish community that lived there during the time of the Romans.
It is hard to believe that a well-known Amorite lived as a lone Jew among a non-Jewish population.
Indeed, his grave marker is identified in the old Jewish cemetery of Haifa. I mentioned that there was a settlement where Jews, Christians and pagans lived from the Byzantine period until the neighborhood was destroyed in the days of T'ahar al-Omer. And since 1948 Jews and Arabs live in the neighborhood again
You forgot to write that a rabbi Daman Haifa, who is mentioned in the Gemara, is buried in Haifa.
So there was a Jewish settlement in Haifa at least during the Roman and Byzantine periods.
Why were the Indian soldiers who fought in the First World War not mentioned and a monument to their memory is in the British cemetery
The article mentioned all the Jewish cemeteries bordering the neighborhood, including the British one. There is no room in the article to detail everyone who is in these cemeteries, perhaps in another article. The idea is that readers who are not familiar with Haifa will know about the cemeteries and will be able to read about them in detail
Rafi Rapoul What is this lady (Klish) doing? She neglected and neglects every corner, street, neighborhood in the city and stop praising her. Because she is a serious problem for us residents of Haifa.
I really like the whole mixed population of Haifa. This is how it should be to co-exist and live in peace with Arabs, Christians, Muslims and Jews.
Thanks for the knowledge
An interesting article and a shame there is no precipitation in the neighborhood
Are there guided tours of the neighborhood and Haifa in its early periods? If so, where can I get information?
Currently, there are still no organized tours, but it can be arranged. You can arrange to contact and coordinate directly with me. Kamil Sari. On my Facebook page you can see the details of the direct contact. As a rep
A charming and insightful article.
I have been a resident of the neighborhood with my family for many years.
My late father had the neighborhood grocery store.
Many longings.
Was the grocery store on El Atika Street?
Thanks for a fascinating article. My father was born and grew up in AL Zissou 16 and I, the guide, am returning from there right now as part of a preparatory tour for a group that should come on tour soon. To my disappointment, I saw that the cave under the rail was fenced and locked. I would love to know who holds the key and especially why this fascinating place is not maintained and open to the general public. thanks
Thanks for the interesting article. There seems to be a mistake regarding the angel Gabriel. He does not appear in the Old Testament! As the harbinger of the birth of John the Baptist.
Indeed, the gospel about the birth of John the Baptist, like the gospel about the birth of Jesus, is told in the New Testament in the Gospel according to Luke, even though his name does not appear explicitly, but tradition attributes the mention of the angel of God - meaning the angel Gabriel:
— The Gospel According to Lucas, Chapter 1
I would like to thank everyone who wrote comments. Indeed, this is a unique and amazing neighborhood. Everyone is welcome to visit and tour, and tours of the neighborhood can be arranged. My contact information is on my Facebook page and you can contact me directly. As a rep
Special article by Dr. Kamil Sari, director of the northern branch of the Antiquities Authority
A very interesting article - especially for Haifa natives
I was born and lived in the building pictured in 1949 to Holocaust refugee parents like the other tenants in the neighborhood. My parents received the housing from the Abandoned Property Company.
I lived there until the age of 15. Little by little, the tenants changed to Arab residents. In one of the years, we were moved to hotels in order to strengthen the building (see pillars on each side of the building). For those who lived there and remember next to the church, there was a foundry for Susita car parts.
From fiberglass on the main street there was a factory for Sipolox glass bottles! Yes, there were good times
It's fun to hear and I'd love to meet and hear more stories from the memory in the neighborhood for the benefit of continuing the documentation of the neighborhood
Was the name of the neighborhood also the Carmel station?
The neighborhood where Israel's beauty queen Miri Zamir was born and raised as well as Miss World runner-up.
Indeed, this is the neighborhood that is also called the Carmel station after the train station that was there during the Ottoman period
Repairing an old neighborhood
It is indeed an ancient settlement in Haifa. Mayor Mrs. Kalish nurtures this neighborhood like the other neighborhoods in the city of Haifa. All the best to you Einat and happy Sabbath.
exciting. Makes you want to take a comprehensive tour of the area. Hope to make it happen soon.
exciting. Makes you want to take a comprehensive tour of the area.
Very nice
Stunning!
From my personal acquaintance with you, Dr. Kamil Sari, you are a special person
and knows very well how to bring the most informative and effective information to the readers
A very interesting article covering quite a wide period
Yes, it is very important to understand in each neighborhood what the past is, where and how it grew, tours in each neighborhood and inviting tourists, this will greatly encourage tourism and get to know the most beautiful city in the north
well done
Avi Yakar: Thank you very much for the support and I hope we will continue to tell the unique stories of the neighborhoods in the city of Haifa. A charming city thanks to its residents who always knew how to live together with mutual respect
Refugees from Lebanon, Christians, Catholics and Jews lived in the neighborhood of the Carmel station. This shows the combination of Jews and Arabs in that pen. By the way, thanks for the stories about this amazing place.
Thanks Camille. As a son of Haifa, waiting for the continuation. Illuminate unknown corners. I looked at the cemeteries in the past, but not the past of the station neighborhood. Right
there will be a continuation. Every month there will be an article about a different neighborhood in Haifa and during the coming year my book about Haifa will be published.
Are there tours to the interested neighborhood?
It is certainly possible to coordinate group tours of the neighborhood
Two comments:
It was said: "At the end of the 19th century, Arab families began to return to live in the neighborhood" - how to return? When before their "return" did Arab families live there?
And another note - the representatives of the Antiquities Authority were expected to review the huge cache of gold coins that was found there. Have you heard of Fox?
Thank you for the two comments regarding the residents and the gold hoard: the meaning returned in the 19th century is as follows: from the Byzantine period until the year 1761 when Daher al-Omer decided to destroy old Haifa, mixed populations lived there and both Christians and Jews lived in the neighborhood. After the neighborhood was destroyed and its reconstruction began in the 19th century, it was only Christian families who began to rebuild it. And starting in 1948, the neighborhood again begins to be mixed with Arab and Jewish families who lived together and still today Jews live in the neighborhood
Regarding the cache: indeed not integrated. This is a hoard of coins that was discovered randomly during development work by a contractor in 1972 and not in an archaeological dig. The treasure dates back to the time of Emperor Phokas (602 – 610 AD). Beyond that, there is not much explanation about the treasure since it was not discovered in the excavation
An amazing neighborhood. I lived there at AL Ziso 31. Amazing people!!!!. And most importantly, Abu Yosef (deceased) is there and Rabab is now in his place (who doesn't know cupping. It's amazing).
Why is there no reference in the article to the ancient Jewish settlement that was in Haifa.
The ancient burial caves in the neighborhood are typical of Jews from the Roman period.
Rabbi Abdimi, a Haifa resident from the Roman era, mentioned in the Talmud, is buried there.
Regarding the question of the Jewish settlement and the burial caves: the caves used by all the inhabitants at the time, Jews, Christians and pagans, were buried in the same method during the Roman and Byzantine periods: hewn caves and the coffins were placed in crypts. In the caves in El Atika, there is no proof of who used the caves, Christians or Jews. That's why I only referred to the findings and not the hypotheses. The settlement cannot be called a Jewish city because during the Byzantine period Jews, Christians and other populations lived in Haifa.
As a rep
Hello to Dr. Kamil Sari.
Rabbi Abdimi Daman Haifa (translated into Hebrew: Rabbi Abdimi of the city of Haifa) was said to be in the second and third generations of the Amorites of the Land of Israel. In some places he is called Rabbi Dimi Daman Haifa or Rabbi Abdia Dahaifa.
Rabbi Abdimi is mentioned in the Talmud, so it is likely that he was part of a developed Jewish community that lived there during the time of the Romans.
It is hard to believe that a well-known Amorite lived as a lone Jew among a non-Jewish population.
Only ruin and desolation - Gentile buildings that do not belong here - all this after we were exiled from our land - and now that we have returned to our land - our land is and will build the State of Israel in the Land of Israel
fantastic
Thanks for the interesting information! It's fun to learn about our city.
Oh interesting
Great article, thanks for sharing and posting